Chaumet | 12Bis "Le Musée Virtuel Chaumet"

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Dessin des ailes de Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney

Joseph Chaumet, 1908
Collection Chaumet Paris

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Aigrette

Joseph Chaumet,
1906
Photographie
originale
Collection Chaumet
Paris

Aigrette

Joseph Chaumet,
1907
Photographie originale
Collection Chaumet
Paris

Dessin d’une aigrette,
Joseph Chaumet, vers 1890
Collection Chaumet Paris

Dessin d’un bandeau ailé,
Joseph Chaumet, vers 1910
Collection Chaumet Paris

Bandeau ailé

Joseph Chaumet, 1913
dessin original
Collection Chaumet Paris

Bandeau ailé

Joseph Chaumet, 1913
Collection Chaumet Paris

Broche aile

Joseph Chaumet, 1909
Or, argent, rubis et diamants
Collection Chaumet Paris

Très probablement élément d’une paire, cette broche en mouvement évoque la souplesse et la légèreté des plumes. Elle est ponctuée de rubis, dont le pourpre ardent illustre le bonheur des amoureux.

Aigrette ailes

Ailes : Joseph Chaumet, vers 1915
Monture aigrette : Chaumet, 2011
Platine, or, diamants, saphir
Collection particulière

Cette paire de broches en diamants de la Belle Époque a été remontée dans l’esprit d’alors : en aigrette, sur une armature permettant d’orienter les ailes dans différentes directions. Le travail du joaillier traduit la superposition des plumes composant l’aile, des plus petites aux grandes rémiges.

Paire de broches ailes de Gertrude Vanderbilt Whitney

Joseph Chaumet, 1908
Platine, or, émail bleu et diamants
Collection Thomas Färber

Cette imposante paire d’ailes provient d’une monture en aigrette, choisie par l’Américaine Gertrude Vanderbilt, épouse de Harry Payne Whitney. Femme du monde ayant réuni par son mariage deux immenses fortunes, elle est avant tout fantasque et artiste.

Sculpteur et collectionneur, élève de Rodin, elle fonde le magazine Vogue et crée le Whitney Museum de New York. Gertrude Vanderbilt a l’audace des femmes de caractère, dont les bijoux traduisent un goût sûr et affirmé. Nombre de ses joyaux proviennent de chez Chaumet, dont une autre paire d’ailes en diamants. Celle-ci associe des lignes tendues de diamants à la transparence et la rondeur de l’émail bleu.

Les Ailes du désir

THÈME LE PLUS AUDACIEUX DU RÉPERTOIRE AMOUREUX DE CHAUMET, LES AILES ONT COIFFÉ LES ÉLÉGANTES DE LA BELLE ÉPOQUE. SUBTILES ET AÉRIENNES, ELLES SIGNENT LA PUISSANCE, LE CHOIX DES FEMMES DE CARACTÈRE À QUI L’AMOUR DONNE DES AILES. PROMESSE D’ÉLÉVATION, ALLÉGORIE DE LA VICTOIRE, L’AILE LIBÈRE ET PERMET D’ATTEINDRE LES SOMMETS. LÉGÈRETÉS DE L’AMOUR, TRANQUILLITÉ DE LA VERTU ET DES DEVOIRS CONJUGAUX ENSEIGNÉS PAR MINERVE ET MERCURE, DIEUX ROMAINS AUX ATTRIBUTS AILÉS : CES APANAGES DE PLUMES SONT UN OXYMORE AMOUREUX.

A LA BELLE EPOQUE, JOSEPH CHAUMET NE POSE PAS DE LIMITES À LA CRÉATION DE BIJOUX AILÉS. LE PLUS SOUVENT AIGRETTES, DONT LES AILES SE DÉTACHENT POUR SE PORTER EN BROCHES, LES COMBINAISONS SONT INFINIES. TOUT EN ÉLÉVATION ET SUSPENSION, ORIENTABLES, DE TAILLES ET DE STYLES TRÈS DIFFÉRENTS, CES PARURES DE PLUMES ONT MARQUÉ LEUR ÉPOQUE.

Une éducation sentimentale

DEPUIS 1780, CHAUMET, A MIS LA VIE AU CŒUR DE SA CRÉATION, CÉLÉBRANT LES INSTANTS MAGIQUES DE LA SENTIMENTALITÉ DE SON TEMPS.

MOMENTS HEUREUX, PUBLICS OU INTIMES, IMMORTALISÉS PAR LES APPARATS FASTUEUX DES CÉRÉMONIES OU SUGGÉRÉS PAR LA DISCRÉTION DÉLICATE D’UNE MÉDAILLE DE NAISSANCE, LA MAISON INSCRIT LE BONHEUR DANS DES PIÈCES JOAILLIÈRES PARTICULIÈRES.

SOUVENT UNIQUES, SPÉCIALEMENT CRÉÉES POUR UNE SEULE PERSONNE À L’OCCASION D’UN ÉVÉNEMENT EXCEPTIONNEL, ELLES TISSENT LES LIENS DE LA TENDRESSE, SIGNENT UN STYLE ET TÉMOIGNENT DU GOÛT D’UNE ÉPOQUE. SUBLIMANT LA PERSONNALITÉ DE L’HEUREUX DESTINATAIRE, CES FÉTICHES HEUREUX DONNENT UNE ÂME AUX JOYAUX.

Napoléon dans son cabinet de travail

Jacques-Louis David, 1812
Huile sur toile
National Gallery of Art, Washington DC, USA

Joséphine en costume de sacre

Baron François Gérard, 1807-1807
Huile sur toile
Musée Château de Fontainebleau

AUX ORIGINES, JOSÉPHINE ET NAPOLÉON

PASSIONNÉMENT AMOUREUX DE JOSÉPHINE, L’EMPEREUR CÈDE À SON GOÛT IMMODÉRÉ POUR LES BIJOUX. NITOT, FONDATEUR DE CHAUMET, DONT ELLE FAIT SON JOAILLIER ATTITRÉ DÈS 1805, EST AUSSI SON COMPLICE LORSQU’IL S’AGIT D’OBTENIR LE RÈGLEMENT DE SES NOMBREUSES COMMANDES. JOSÉPHINE N’HÉSITE PAS À LE CACHER PRÉCIPITAMMENT À LA MALMAISON LE TEMPS D’IMPROVISER UN INTERMÈDE AMOUREUX AVEC L’EMPEREUR, AFIN D’EXTORQUER À CE DERNIER LA SOMME DUE À SON JOAILLIER.

Napoléon à Joséphine

Je me réveille plein de toi. Ton portrait et le souvenir de l’enivrante soirée d’hier n’ont pas laissé de repos à mes sens.

(...)

Cherasco, 10 Floreal, an IV, Napoléon à Joséphine

Mon bonheur est que tu sois heureuse, ma joie que tu sois gaie, mon plaisir que tu en aies. Jamais femme ne fut aimée avec plus de dévouement, de feu et de tendresse.

(...)

Saint-Cloud, 14 novembre 1803, Joséphine à Napoléon

Tous mes chagrins ont disparu en lisant la bonne et touchante lettre qui renferme les expressions aimables de ton sentiment pour moi. (…) Une lettre est le portrait de l'âme, et je presse celle-ci contre mon cœur. Elle me fait tant de bien ! Je veux la garder toujours ! Elle sera ma consolation pendant ton absence, mon guide lorsque je serai près de toi, car je veux toujours être à tes yeux la bonne, la tendre Joséphine, occupée uniquement à ton bonheur. (...) Oui, ma volonté est aussi de te plaire, de t'aimer, ou, plutôt, de t'adorer

(...)

Pistoja, 10 Messidor an IV, Napoléon à Joséphine

Adieu ma bien aimée, un baiser sur ta bouche, un autre sur ton coeur, et un autre sur ton petit...

(...)

22 ou 23 avril 1810, Joséphine à Napoléon

Mille, mille tendres remerciements de ne m'avoir pas oubliée. Mon fils vient de m'apporter ta lettre. Avec quelle ardeur je l'ai lue, et cependant j'y ai mis bien du temps, car il n'y a pas un mot qui ne m'ait fait pleurer. Mais ces larmes étaient bien douces ! (...) Il y a des sentiments qui sont la vie même et qui ne peuvent finir qu'avec elle

Acrostiches

ABÉCÉDAIRE AMOUREUX, INSPIRÉS DE LA POÉSIE, LES BIJOUX ACROSTICHES COMPOSENT UN MESSAGE CACHÉ AVEC LES INITIALES DES PIERRES DONT ILS SONT SERTIS. NAPOLÉON 1ER OFFRE DE TELS BRACELETS AUX IMPÉRATRICES JOSÉPHINE PUIS MARIE-LOUISE, À MADAME MÈRE AINSI QU’À SA SOEUR ELISA BACCHIOCI, POUR CÉLÉBRER MARIAGES, ANNIVERSAIRES ET AMOUR FILIAL. CHAUMET RÉINVENTE LES BIJOUX ACROSTICHES À TOUTES LES ÉPOQUES, PARFOIS AGRÉMENTÉS DE SYMBOLES SENTIMENTAUX COMME LES RUBANS.

ABÉCÉDAIRE

Survolez les pierres pour découvrir les lettres

CRÉEZ ET PARTAGEZ VOTRE PROPRE
ACROSTICHE

COMPOSEZ VOTRE BIJOU ACROSTICHE

Touchez les pierres pour composer votre message. 13 lettres au maximum sont autorisées.
Pour retirer une des pierres du bracelet cliquez simplement dessus.

(Améthyste)

Dessin d'un bracelet acrostiche épelant le prénom Françoise
Joseph Chaumet, vers 1890
Or et pierres de couleur (Fancy, Rubis, Aigue-marine, Néphrite, Chrysoprase, Olivine, Iris, Saphir, Emeraude)
Collection Chaumet Paris

Bracelet AMOUR aux rubans
Joseph Chaumet, vers 1890
Or, argent, diamants, améthyste, morganite, opale, uvite et rubis
Collection Chaumet, Paris

Bracelet AMOUR
Chaumet, 2004
Or, améthyste, morganite, opale de feu, uvite et rhodolite

Bracelet Multi Liens
Chaumet, 2007
Or et diamants
Collection Chaumet, Paris
Dans l’esprit des bracelets acrostiches à chaînes, ce délicat bracelet scande le motif de l’attachement, liens croisés inspirés des noeuds de rubans chers à Chaumet.

Nouez ou dénouez-moi

HÉRITÉS DES LACS D’AMOUR UTILISÉS DÈS LE 17ÈME SIÈCLE EN JOAILLERIE, PUIS DES NŒUDS CHERS À LA REINE MARIE-ANTOINETTE ET DES GUIRLANDES DE RUBANS DE LA BELLE EPOQUE, LES LIENS DE CHAUMET SYMBOLISENT L’ATTACHEMENT AFFECTIF ET AMOUREUX, DANS LA TRADITION DES BIJOUX DE SENTIMENT. FIL QUI ATTACHE DEUX ÊTRES, PUISSANCE QUI LIE, LE NOEUD SOIGNEUSEMENT FORMÉ ET OFFERT AUX REGARDS EST LE SIGNE D'AMOURS ÉPANOUIES. FLUIDE ET SIMPLEMENT ENROULÉ, IL SE DÉNOUE AUSSI DANS L'INTIMITÉ.

Lors de son accession aux pleins pouvoirs en 1911, le maharajah d’Indore Tukoji Rao III Holkar acquiert auprès de Joseph Chaumet une paire de diamants pesant chacun 47 carats, que la Maison monte sur un collier dit « négligé », noeud asymétrique. Férus de culture occidentale et de modernisme, son fils Yeshwant Rao II Holkar d’Indore et sa première épouse Shrimant Akhand Sahib Soubhagyavati Sanyogita Bai Holkar restent fidèles à Chaumet. Proche des artistes européens Man Ray, Ruhlmann, Gray ou encore Boutet de Monvel, ce couple solaire se marie en 1924.

Collier serti des deux poires d’Indore, 1913

Devant de corsage noeud de ruban
Joseph Chaumet, 1922
Platine, or, perles fines baroques et diamants
Diamants et perles se marient ici dans une harmonie de couleurs pures pour raconter l’union de deux êtres. Puissance qui lie, le noeud se dénoue aussi dans l’intimité. Offert aux regards lorsqu’il est porté sur le buste, soigneusement formé, il est un signe d’épanouissement.

Bracelet trois perles
Joseph Chaumet, vers 1895
Or, argent, perles fines, perle conche et diamants
Collection Chaumet, Paris
Dans un mouvement de Toi & Moi, ce jonc de diamants réunit trois perles dans une parfaite harmonie de formes et de couleurs.

Dessin d'un collier serre-cou aux rubans croisés
Joseph Chaumet, vers 1910
Collection Chaumet Paris

Dessin d'une broche noeud écossais
Joseph Chaumet, vers 1900
Collection Chaumet Paris

Dessin d'une montre pendentif noeuds et pompons
Joseph Chaumet, vers 1905
Collection Chaumet Paris

Dessin d'un collier aux rubans en émeraudes et diamants
Joseph Chaumet, vers 1905
Collection Chaumet Paris

Bague "Le Sacre de l'Amour"
Chaumet, 2016
Platine, serti d'un diamant jaune taille coussin de 25,86 carats
Hommage au mariage de Joséphine et Napoléon, événement fondateur de la Maison, cette bague sertie d’un diamant coussin exceptionnel est l’expression virtuose de la Haute Joaillerie Chaumet. Une pièce unique pour couronner en majesté les amoureux d’aujourd’hui.

Bague Micro Liens
Chaumet, 1989
Or et diamants
Collection Chaumet, Paris
Réinterprétation tout en rondeurs de la ligne Premiers Liens créée par Chaumet en 1977, cette bague rejoue les rubans croisés en diamants qui réunissent ici deux anneaux, et signe un engagement fort.

Bague Escapade
Chaumet, 2016
Or et diamants
Créée spécialement pour l’exposition, la collection en série limitée Escapade de Chaumet est la promesse d’un moment imprévu et volé, qui évoque la fluidité d’un ruban plat négligemment enroulé - ou déroulé. Toutes les tranches sont biseautées et serties de diamants brillants visibles de tous côtés, dans la grande tradition joaillière.

Coeur de cible

DANS LA MYTHOLOGIE ROMAINE, LA FLÈCHE EST L'ATTRIBUT DE CUPIDON, FILS DE VÉNUS ET DIEU DE L'AMOUR. RÉPUTÉE POUR TOUJOURS ATTEINDRE SA CIBLE EN PLEIN COEUR, LA FLÈCHE QU'IL DÉCOCHE ENFLAMME ET PROVOQUE L'AMOUR QUAND ELLE EST D'OR.

TRAIT DE LUMIÈRE ASCENSIONNEL, LA FLÈCHE EST LE SYMBOLE DES ÉCHANGES ENTRE LE CIEL ET LA TERRE. RAPIDE ET DROITE, ELLE SUGGÈRE AUSSI L'ÉCLAIR DU SAVOIR INSTANTANÉ, ET L'AMOUR FÉCONDANT.

Montre pendentif et épingle flèche

Joseph Chaumet, vers 1910
Or, platine, saphir, émeraudes, diamants et émail
Collection Chaumet Paris

La flèche de diamants illumine le délicat garde-temps en émail guilloché, orné d’une dentelle de platine. Cette montre de dame se porte en pendentif… ou épinglée au corsage.

Verso :

Recto :

Broche flèche
Joseph Chaumet, 1920
Photographie originale
Collection Chaumet Paris

Broche flèche
Joseph Chaumet, 1905
Collection Chaumet Paris

LA PHOTOGRAPHIE, TRANSMISSION D’UN STYLE

Dès 1885 Joseph Chaumet, fervent promoteur des nouveautés scientifiques et techniques, dote la Maison d’un photographe dédié, qui immortalise in situ l’ensemble des pièces sortant des ateliers, ainsi que celles qui reviennent pour une transformation ou une réparation. Ces photographies témoignent de la production réalisée et du savoir-faire d’excellence de Chaumet.

Exhaustif, le fonds photographique comprend plus de 300 000 pièces, négatifs sur verre et souples, autochromes, tirages sur papier et albums. Toutes sont numérotées et renvoient à des cahiers tenus par les photographes, consignant la date et le nom du commanditaire. Du plus humble des bijoux au diadème le plus extraordinaire, cet ensemble raconte l’histoire de la mode et du goût parisien, et le style de la Maison.

Cliquez sur la flèche pour la faire tourner.
Suivant la réponse obtenue, les cœurs à atteindre sur l’écran suivant seront plus ou moins grands.
Bonne chance !

Continuer

Jouez avec Cupidon et ses flèches !

Dans ce jeu vous devez lors d'une première étape déterminer la taille du cœur à prendre, en faisant tourner la roue ci-dessous.
Ensuite seulement, vous pourrez accéder à la deuxième étape du jeu, et percer le plus de cœurs possible.

Commencer

Si vous ne souhaitez pas jouer
Passer le jeu et continuer la visite

Vous avez touché moins de 10 coeurs :

Cupidon vous inspire mais vous pouvez vous améliorer. Vous devez encore vous former pour cibler plus de coeurs.

“L'amour est aveugle.” Platon

Vous avez touché entre 10 et 30 coeurs :

Votre apprentissage auprès de Cupidon commence à porter ses fruits. Continuer à vous entraîner pour toucher d’avantage de coeurs.

“L'amour est toujours devant vous. Aimez.” André Breton

Vous avez touché entre 30 et 60 coeurs :

Beau score, Cupidon vous a bien formé. Les jeux de l’amour n’ont plus de secret pour vous !

“L'amour fait songer, vivre et croire.” Victor Hugo

Vous avez touché plus de 60 coeurs :

Vous n’avez plus rien à apprendre de Cupidon, Vous êtes un expert en amour !

“L'amour triomphe de tout.” Virgile

Rejouer

Jouez avec Cupidon et ses flèches !

Cliquez sur la flèche pour l’orienter et tirez en arrière pour tendre l’arc.

Plus vous tirez en arrière, plus la flèche partira loin.

Lachez la flèche et essayez d’atteindre les cœurs qui s’envolent.
La partie s’arrête lorsqu’un des cœurs parvient à s’échapper sans être touché.

Pour que le jeu commence vous devez d’abord atteindre le premier cœur fixe.
Ensuite les cœurs apparaîtront en bas de l’écran pour s’envoler.
Chaque cœur atteint vous rapporte un point. N’en manquez aucun !

Commencer

Le diadème ou l’amour couronné

AVANT MÊME LA BAGUE, QUI DEMEURE LONGTEMPS UN OBJET INTIME, LE DIADÈME EST LE ROI DES JOYAUX DE MARIAGE. ACCESSOIRE DE MODE ET EMBLÈME SOCIAL, IL EST INCONTOURNABLE DANS LA CORBEILLE DES JEUNES FILLES BIEN NÉES.

C’EST L’IMPÉRATRICE JOSÉPHINE, LORS DE SON COURONNEMENT, QUI REMET CE BIJOU ANTIQUE AU GOÛT DU JOUR. IL EST PORTÉ LE JOUR DU MARIAGE, MAIS AUSSI POUR TOUTES LES OCCASIONS MONDAINES ET OFFICIELLES, BALS ET SOIRÉES À L’OPÉRA, OFFRANT AUX FEMMES UN PORT DE REINE, ILLUMINANT LEUR VISAGE. DEPUIS 1780 CHAUMET A CRÉÉ PLUS DE 2500 MODÈLES DE BIJOUX DE TÊTE, DIADÈMES FORMELS, AIGRETTES AÉRIENNES ET BANDEAUX GRAPHIQUES. SYMBOLE DE SUCCÈS ET DE BONHEUR, LE DIADÈME RÈGNE SUR LES SOIRS ET LES NUITS DE FÊTE AVEC EXUBÉRANCE ET PASSION.

BEAUTÉ FATALE

Couple magnifique et cultivé, Irina de Russie et Félix Youssoupoff ont un destin romanesque. Il est l’auteur de l’assassinat de Raspoutine en 1916, elle est la nièce du tsar Nicolas II. Sa corbeille de mariage est réalisée en un temps record par Chaumet en 1914, avec des pierres parmi les plus belles du 19ème siècle, tel le diamant Etoile Polaire. Les princes fuient la Russie pour Paris en 1917, laissant derrière eux la plus grande partie de leur trésor familial, qu’ils ne reverront jamais, retrouvé et saisi par l’Etat.

Diadème triple soleil de la princesse Youssoupoff

Joseph Chaumet, 1914
Photographie originale
Collection Chaumet Paris

Ce diadème rayonnant figurait dans la corbeille de mariage d'Irina de Russie, qui le portait sur le front tel un bandeau articulé. Il fut saisi avec les biens de la famille Youssoupoff lors de la révolution bolchévique de 1917.

Diadème aux fuschias, dit Bourbon-Parme
Joseph Chaumet, 1919
Platine et diamants.

Descendant de Louis XIV, frère de l’impératrice Zita d’Autriche, le prince Sixte de Bourbon-Parme épouse Hedwige de La Rochefoucauld. A l’occasion de leur mariage, la duchesse de Doudeauville commande à Chaumet un ensemble de bijoux pour sa fille, destinés à sa corbeille de mariage et livrés le matin même de la cérémonie, le 12 novembre 1919. L’ensemble comprend ce diadème, dentelle de platine et de diamants aux fleurs de fuschias stylisées, symboles d'amour ardent, et dont les étamines jaillissent en apesanteur. Il est un bel exemple du trompe-l’œil de Chaumet, formant des grandes poires avec des diamants taillés en coussin et agrémentés de brillants.

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Parure de saphirs et diamants
issue de la corbeille de mariage de la princesse Alice de Bourbon-Parme, épouse du prince Alphonse de Bourbon-Sicile, infant d’Espagne, 1936

Dans les grandes familles, la corbeille de mariage évoque la présentation, le jour de la signature du contrat de mariage ou de la cérémonie, des bijoux offerts à la fiancée par ses parents et amis. Ils sont exposés sur une table ou dans une vitrine, parfois étiquetés du nom de leur donateur. Le diadème y occupe une place de choix. A l'occasion du mariage de la princesse Alice de Bourbon-Parme avec le prince Alphonse de Bourbon-Sicile, Chaumet réalise trois parures magnifiant les pierres de famille du marié, autrefois offertes par leur ancêtre l'empereur François-Joseph d'Autriche. Cette parure de saphirs est couronnée par un important diadème dans le style géométrique des années 30.

Diadème curviligne "Perles de Vénus"
Joseph Chaumet, vers 1930
Or, argent, perles fines et diamants
Collection Chaumet Paris

Sensuelle, féminine, la perle est associée à Vénus, déesse de l’amour, et convient particulièrement aux bijoux de mariage. Ici, les perles fines baroques composent une partition puissante et délicate à la fois, dans un jeu de courbes suggérant un entrelacs de rubans.

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Diadème La Nature de Chaumet "Passion incarnat"
Chaumet, 2016
Or blanc et or rose, diamants, spinelles rouges, grenats rhodolite, tourmalines vertes

Fleur de l'innocence virginale et de la puissance royale, le lys décline les différentes facettes de la féminité, de la pureté diaphane à la pudeur enflammée. Sensuel, le lys rouge empourpre de majesté ce diadème transformable.